Connoisseurs Corner
Resurrecting Merlot after Sideways
Who can forget the indignant declaration by Paul Giamatti’s wine-snob extraordinaire character, Miles, in the 2005 film, Sideways: I’m not drinking any *flipping* Merlot!” In the short term, the wine market certainly remembered – domestic Merlot sales plummeted 20% in the 3 years following the movie’s release. And the criticism wasn’t unfounded – Merlot was being overgrown in California for mass market production, resulting in thin, insipid wines that were both unremarkable and betrayed the true greatness of the grape’s majestic potential.
When properly cultivated, Merlot has gorgeous aromatics, opulent fruit, silky texture, and supple tannins. Merlot can stand alone as a gorgeous single varietal (100% Merlot) wine. In the Bordeaux region or appellation of Pomerol, where the Merlot grape is native, it achieves its most exultant and celebrated expression and is the primary grape – and often the only grape – in some of the world’s most coveted wines. In other appellations of Bordeaux, like the famous Medoc, Merlot is a critical blending grape, used to soften Cabernet Sauvignon’s harsher tannins and astringent profile. Iconic Chateaux like Lafite Rothschild and Margaux have achieved matchless renown because of the compositional harmony that Merlot brings to their blends.
…Back in the US, the post-Sideways sales drop was a slap to the industry, which pivoted hard toward quality. Production levels fell, mass producers abandoned their plonk, and quality producers reclaimed Merlot’s standard of excellence. Today, Merlot sales are back to pre-Sideways levels, and quality in the US is better than ever. Many industry insiders admit that Sideways was the best worst thing that ever happened to Merlot!Merlot is now cultivated globally, making exception quality wines from regions around the world.
idrinkkosher.com is proud to recommend the following international selection of Merlot for your enjoyment:
IDRINKKOSHER Merlot recommendations:
France: Ch. Fayat, Ch, Etoiles de Mondorion, Ch. Le Gay
Israel: Shiloh Shor Merlot, Shiloh Secret Reserve Merlot, Gvaot Merlot, Pagot Merlot
California: Herzog Special Reserve Merlot, Hagafen Merlot
Italy: Cantina Guiliana Merlot, Baffonero
